Ossobuco at The Italian Club

Henry David Thoreau urged us all to ‘suck the marrow of life’, it’s something I like to do, in a more literal sense than he was suggesting. Thus when a large serving of Ossobucco arrived in front of me, at a recent trip to The Italian Club, I was very excited to see the correct cut of meat was in use. A suitably sized rear veal shank, centred round a large marrow bone, the tender delicate meat flaked apart all around it with the bones soft rich centre waiting for the final act. The surrounding broth reduced to its lowest terms, was deep and rich. I showed my fellow diner the courtesy of not deliberately picking up the bone and sucking it, but I did shave close with my knife for a real treat that rounded off a lovely dish.

I’ve eaten once before at the Italian club, and several times at their little brother The Italian Club Fish, all nice meals and reasonably priced. I would have normally described the Italian Club as solid cooking that tastes good without blowing you socks off, this night however was different. All because of the little circle of bone full of delicious marrow, it was great to see this done properly, and I respect a restaurant that doesn’t worry about perceptions and tries to sanitise a dish. Marrow isn’t to everyone’s taste and the chance to remove it in an attempt to make a dish more approachable, is something that other restaurants may not pass up. Thankfully here they did, and it made what would have been a good dish in to something far far better.

A serving of ravioli with spinach and ricotta was good, the delicate soft pasta held a flavoursome and well seasoned filling. Desserts of cheese cake and a selection of biscotti were nice, even if the biscuits had an air of being high-class bought in nibbles rather than home-made.

The star of this show was the Ossobuco, a classic dish done really well, it was a special that added perfectly to the limited standard menu. I was impressed with this meal, and very happy with what I had, a return journey is certainly in order. However, first I fancy a trip to the woods.