Frankie & Benny’s Edge Lane
The advantage of being a food blogger is occasionally, very occasionally in my case, a restaurant will offer you some form of free meal. I was rather surprised when a few weeks ago Frankie & Benny’s contacted me offering a £50 restaurant voucher in return for a written review, this very review in fact. Now, F&B’s is not the kind of place I would ever choose to eat, in fact I’ve never eaten at a F&B’s before, in any of their 180 nationwide franchises. I wrote back to F&B’s, stating quite clearly that I didn’t write favoured reviews, unlike our local papers; despite the free cost it would be an honest review of the food on offer. They were very happy with this, certain that their new menu would stand up to close inspection. A few days later the voucher arrived in the post and myself and a friend made our way to the rather derelict Edge Lane.
I remember when Edge Lane retail park was new and shiny, regular Saturdays as a child we’d go for a pizza at Deep Pan Pizza Co, and then on to the cinema for a film. Its current state rather dulls those childhood memories, half the park is empty and derelict, the other half’s shabby exterior seems to be following suit. The welcoming golden arches and F&B’s are the only two places left that at least look clean and inviting.
As we entered, we were seated quickly in a restaurant that was doing well to insulate us from the decaying surroundings of Edge Lane. Heavy venetian blinds, a warm pleasant atmosphere and friendly service made for a nice place to sit. The waitress, having spotted our meal voucher asked “which restaurant had we’d had a bad experience in”, was this was an omen of what was to come?
A quick review of the drinks menu and a couple of Sam Adams arrived, cold crisp pleasant beer that isn’t found in many places in Liverpool. This seemed like a good start, however, it was the high point of a meal which I was sincerely hoping would be better.
We all know what F&B’s is, a mass chain restaurant, where you can get the same food in any of its establishments at any time of year. However it’s not actually a restaurant, it doesn’t cook, there is little skill involved, it heats up what is pre-packaged and puts it on a plate. I was hoping for more; perhaps somewhere that would entertain children while at least serving half decent food to keep the parents happy, it doesn’t do this.
Starters of potato skins were drenched in oil and flavourless, at least our calamari was soft and tender if very over seasoned. Fish cakes, one of our mains, was bland and watery, with an unpleasant rock hard batter surrounding it, clearly straight from the deep freeze. A calzone was stuffed full of a horrible concoction of tomato sauce, cheap ham, chicken and pepperoni with far too much seasoning. The dough at least seemed fresh, I doubt they made it themselves, it was probably bought in, but at least in recent history it had actually been a paste of flour and water.
The food probably deserves no further attention in this review, bland, flavourless, pre-packaged pap, however this doesn’t relate to the side dishes. One portion of spicy onion rings and a serving of mixed vegetables, were so very different, they were disgusting. The vegetables, consisting of carrots and broccoli, straight from the freezer microwaved until the remaining substance bears no resemblance to the original vegetable they claim to be. The onion rings received one bite each before being pushed to the side, it’s almost worth visiting to see how bad some vegetables and onion rings can be.
The food was bad, but that’s not the real issue, this meal cost £60 for two people; we only drank 2 beers and a coke. Three courses and few drinks for £60, I could make a list, a very long list, of places in Liverpool where less money could get two people a meal immeasurably better than what we had, including the McDonalds over the road. I will not be returning.








Love the review, but the place sounds horrid! Maybe a lot of local papers and some other bloggers should read this to see that just because you get a meal comped, doesn’t mean you have to say good things about them!
Thats the problem with papers, the Echo gets a lot of its income from advertising and it needs to do as much as possible to secure this income. Thus, a restaurant is more likely to place an add in the paper if it’s had a positive review. Their hands are tied when reviewing and thus their opinions and reviews are worthless.
Glad you liked the review.
I worked at the Echo and Daily Post (as was) for many years (and still have many friends there) and their restaurant reviews are done anonymously and impartially. They often write negative reviews.
Their reviewers turn down free meals every day of the week – why would they eat for free when they get paid to go and they claim back their meals on expenses?
Andrew
Sorry if I’m making a mistake, but I can not recall any reviews in local papers that are negative, perhaps you could direct me to some?
I wonder if you could inform me if potential advertising revenue from restaurants effects how they are reviewed? I’m not sure if it does, but I would love to know.
Hi Sid,
No, I can promise you that was never (and I believe is never) a consideration for the Echo or Post – they have reviewing budgets. The editorial and advertising teams are entirely different (often never even meeting). Look at the papers and you will see regular advertisers get terrible reviews and restaurants who have never advertised getting glowing reports.
As for negative reviews, try this one from last week’s Post: I think they advertised when they opened!
http://www.liverpooldailypost.co.uk/liverpool-culture/2012/05/11/restaurant-review-liverpool-s-newest-mexican-restaurant-lucha-libre-99623-30930762/
Andrew
I have to say that I can’t agree with you, obviously I don’t have the inside knowledge you do, but far too many times I’ve read very positive reviews of quite poor restaurants. Indeed it was this frustration that leads me to starting this blog,
Here’s one of Patisserie Valerie:
http://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/liverpool-news/in-the-mix/2012/04/19/restaurant-review-first-impressions-can-be-deceptive-at-patisserie-valerie-100252-30790765/
San Carlo:
http://www.liverpooldailypost.co.uk/liverpool-culture/eating-out-in-liverpool/2010/09/14/tipped-over-the-edge-by-service-charges-jade-wright-reviews-san-carlo-liverpool-99623-27261347/
London Carriageworks:
http://www.liverpooldailypost.co.uk/food/2011/12/13/jade-wright-samples-the-festive-menu-on-offer-at-the-london-carriageworks-99623-29941673/
All three of those restaurants are pretty poor, judging by my own experiences and a a lot of word of mouth. Actually those reviews let them off quite lightly.
You said you’d never seen a negative review in a local newspaper – I was just showing you that they aren’t all glorified advertising features, and that they aren’t comps.
You may not agree with all of the reviewers’ opinions – and they may not with yours – as food is a very subjective thing.
But your comment “their opinions and reviews are worthless” because they deliberately write misleading reviews to please advertisers is unfair and inaccurate.
I’m not sure I ever used the word ‘worthless’.
Surely you being a former employee makes your opinion inaccurate and unfair, I doubt you are able to make an impartial judgement.
Hello Sid,
I’m the current web editor of the Echo and Post and Andrew is right – all reviews are done anonymously and paid for from the Echo or Post review budget.
The choice of where to review and the tone of reviews is not connected in any way with advertising – no-one’s hands are tied, as you suggested in your earlier comment.
Put simply, the reviewer’s job is to state their opinion of the restaurant whatever that may be and no pressure would ever be put on them to change that view one way or the other.
Anything other than that means we are not serving our readers by giving them a true account of somewhere they may be planning to eat.
If you think about it, having that unbiased approach makes our food and drink section more attractive to advertisers, as more people read it knowing they will get an honest account of what a meal was like.
I should add that occasionally we may have sponsored food pull outs – as we do other pull-out supplements, on sport or local history for instance – but these are always clearly marked as such.
Hope this clears things up and good luck with your blog in the future.
Thank goodness it’s not just me who deplores F&B – I’ve only had the misfortune of Southport’s branch but you’ll be pleased to know that the standards are consistent across the Group – i.e. disgusting!! I look forward to your future blogs, being a new subscriber!!
Andy
Glad you liked the review, thanks for the kind words. I’m not surprised that it’s just as bad elsewhere, its the whole concept that is wrong.