Nonna Teresa Fresh Pasta

For those of you who attend Lark Lane farmers market this probably isn’t new to you, the producer I’m talking about was really busy and almost completely sold out when we get to there at 10:30. This producer is the Nonna Teresa stall, selling several verities fresh ravioli and italian sauce. I would have liked some fresh crab or beef and herb ravioli but, they were all gone out so we had some spinach and ricotta ravs and a jar of pesto.

This was really good fresh pasta, a million miles away from the the dry paste filled stuff that resides on supermarket shelves. Delicate paster with plenty of flavoursome filling, the pesto was really well made and an excellent accompaniment.

I make my own filled pasta every now and then, but to be honest its a lot of work and takes a fair amount of forward planning. This pasta was as good as anything I’ve ever made, and I’ll certainly be back for more. Clearly this stall is well established, I’m not sure why I’ve missed it at previous markets. In future I’ll make sure I’m there nice and early to try some of their other varieties. Its excellent stuff and I’m really glad to see someone trying something different.

Filini @ The Radisson Blu

The Radisson, on Old Hall Street, has been around for almost a decade, and with it comes Filini, a modern Italian restaurant. I’d eaten there several years ago and had pleasant memories of what was a good meal, a good balance of refined food that didn’t trip on the usual obstacles of being over fussy or over priced. Thus, I was rather pleased when I was invited in to write a review of their new menu one lunch time.

Continue reading

The Italian Club

Despite my love of Italian food, I’d never made it into The Italian Club, a bright welcoming Italian cafe come restaurant. I’ve eaten at their sister outlet, The Italian Club Fish, on several occasions and really enjoyed it. So, for today’s lunch, a bowl of gnocchi was my chosen meal, in Bold Street’s newly expanded independent italian venue.

Gnocchi is a personal favourite of mine, and something I make at home from time to time, its beautiful be it with potato or, a recent discovery, with ricotta. This Gnocchi Alla Sorrentina was very nice, served with tomatoes, shredded basil and some mozzarella. This classic Italian combination was well made, and worked with what was good quality bought in gnocchi. Freshly made gnocchi, although delicious and far better than the packeted kind, could be tricky to make and serve in large quantities. Thus, for this smaller relaxed venue it is an understandable choice, although the dish could never reach its true potential. For £7.50 it is a good price for what was a well sized lunch, and it really should have been the end of this post.

However, typically when someone sits a tempting looking cake right in front of me, my will power crumbles to almost nothing, and today was no exception. Placed on the counter for all to see was a very pleasant looking cake, that I soon ascertained was amaretto and almond. My will power all but shot, I ordered what was beautifully soft cake with a layer of custard in between and crunchy amaretto biscuits on top. It was bursting with fragrant amaretto and almond flavours, for £3.50 it was very very good and worth every penny. It’s just a shame it came served with some cheap spray cream that did it no favours what so ever.

The Italian club is good food and good prices, with a menu offering a wide selection of dishes, it’s certainly worth a visit.

The Arrogance of Pasta and the Joys of Polenta

Look at it preening itself, tossed in some tempting sauce, drizzled with olive oil or sprinkled with parmesan. This precocious food goes with anything, meat, fish, ham, seafood, vegetables, oil, butter, cream, tomatoes, you name it and Pasta’s been with it. It doesn’t even have the dignity to stick to one simple shape, linguine, pappardelle, penne, casarecce and orecchiette are just a few, we haven’t even got onto the stuffed varieties like tortellini or ravioli. Everywhere you go from the finest Michelin stared establishments to cheapest chain restaurants, you’ll find it sitting on the menu flirting with us with its Italian sounding names. And I must confess, I love it. At its best it is the most beautiful and tasty simple rustic food or a complex and delicate dish deserving of high praise. However to call it the quintessential Italian food, the dish that defines national identity, may be doing a disservice to another Italian staple, Polenta.

Polenta is course ground corn meal, cooked in boiling water in a similar way to porridge or risotto. Not long ago, in certain Italian regions, polenta was the staple food and pasta was a little thought of dish. Cooked in giant copper pots over the fire, the slow ritual of continually stirring for 40 mins or so, was almost as important as eating the finished product. It is a dish that anyone with a vague interest in Italian food should try, with the simple addition of butter and parmesan, its a match to anything its flashy little brother can offer. Indeed, as many pasta cooks forget, its simplicity that makes the greatest Italian food. So put the spaghetti down, grab yourself a saucepan and large wooden spoon and try something a bit different.

Polenta can be served in two ways, firstly cooked and served immediately on a large , it will be thick and soft and moorish, real comfort food especially on a cold winters day. Polenta can not be cooked and left standing around, so only cook it when you are ready for it, if you want it this way. Secondly, it can be cooked much in advance poured into a deep try and chilled in the fridge, it will produce a block almost like a heavy set jelly. This can be sliced and recooked, on a griddle pan or fried in olive oil, and makes a nice accompaniment with roast meats. For this recipe I want the soft straight from the pan version.

Italian Pork Stew with Polenta and Courgette Fries

This soft stew and polenta, works well with the crispy courgettes which can be served on the side or on top. This is great comfort food, warm and heavy and full of flavour, having the sausages stewed and not fried gives them a very different feel to how you may normally have them. For the polenta, its available in most supermarkets or delis, I use normal polenta that will take at least 30mins to cook, however quick cook polenta is available that only takes a few minutes. Its up to you which you use, one of my favourite cook books deems it an acceptable but inferior product, thus I stick to the normal kind. I get mine from my local eastern food store, you’ll also find it in most supermarkets and delis. This recipe should serve 4 people.

For the stew.

  • 500g plain pork sausages (You don’t need to do to a fancy italian deli for these just good quality sausages from you butcher or supermarket)
  • 1 medium onion
  • 2 Sticks of celery
  • One large carrot
  • Tblspoon of tomato puree
  • 1 tin of chopped tomatoes
  • 2 glasses of good red wine
  • 100ml of water
  • 1 Sprig of thyme
  • 1 Sprig of Rosemary
  • Salt and pepper

For the Courgetts

  • 3 medium courgettes cut into small strips
  • 4 teaspoons of salt
  • 100g plain flour
  • 5 tablespoons of olive oil

For the Polenta

  • 255g of polenta
  • 3 pints of water
  • Salt
  • 50g butter
  • Grated parmesan

Method For Stew

  • Dice the onion, carrots and celery, fry gently in olive oil in a deep sauce pan until the onion is golden.
  • Add the tomato puree, tomatoes, water and wine and bring back to a simmer.
  • Cut the sausages into small chunks and add to stew, there is no need to fry them.
  • Add the thyme, rosemary and cover on a very gentle simmer, leave this for at least one hour. Although its doesn’t matter how long it simmers for, thus you can make it well in advance and leave it sitting on your stove, but a minimum of one hour is essential.
  • Half an hour before its served remove the lid and reduce to desired consistency, I like it quite thick, then season with salt and pepper.

Method For courgettes.

  • Cover the sliced courgettes with the salt and place in a colander over a bowl, do this about 1 hour before you need them, as the salt will need time to draw out the water.
  • After, at least 30 mins, place courgette on kitchen towel and pat dry.
  • Put courgette sticks into flour and make sure they are all well covered.

Method For the Polenta

  • Bring water to high boil in saucepan and add a light pinch of salt.
  • With one hand continually stir with the other gently sprinkle polenta into water (I like to pour it from a jug).
  • Keep the water boiling, you have to continually stir until its done, which will take 30 to 40 minutes for normal polenta or 5 or 6 for quick cook. While stirring make sure your spoon is scraping the bottom of the pan to stop it sticking.
  • The polenta is done when it has a very thick porridge like consistency and will start to come away from the edge of the pan. Remove from the heat and add the butter and parmesan and stir in. This can sit covered in a pan for no more than ten mintues, but enough time to fry the courgettes.
  • Finish the courgettes, by frying them in hot oil, which should at least 5mm deep in pan.

To serve

Pour out the polenta onto a large plate or board and allow it to spread out slightly. Spoon the stew on top of polenta, and place courgettes on top of stew (if you like). Sever dish in centre of the table, its a great sharing dish, allow everyone to dig in a help themselves.

 

Da Piero Restaurant

Da Perio has been around for five years, over in Irby on the Wirral, however recently it has been gaining quite a bit of press attention for its food. I didn’t want to write a full review, due do it not being in Liverpool, but as its only a short drive, I thought I would include it here. I visited with Beatrice for diner a few weeks ago, and realised that not only is this is a trip worth making, it was one I will make again.

Da Perio is classic Italian cooking at its best, it provides high quality ingredients cooked extremely simply, and thats it. It doesn’t add 18 different ingredients to each dish, al a Jamie’s Italian or any of the so called fine dining restaurants in the Liverpool. The chef here knows that a great piece of beef, such as my main of Cotolette della Nonna Emma, is just perfect covered in herbs and bread crumbs and fried in good olive oil.

Stuffed Pepper with Capers

Our other mains and starters showed the same understanding, that simplicity and an understanding of seasoning is the best way to make fine ingredients sing. The beef and prosciutto ravioli in a sage butter, was delicate and tasty, the pepper stuffed with mince (yes you herd me right, the 70’s diner part stalwart) was bursting with flavour and surprisingly light, the accompanying capers were nicer than anything available in the shops. Our sides of red wine broccoli and purgatory beans, were both excellent and the Admiral tuna was perfectly cooked. The deserts we had didn’t quite show the same delicacy of touch, theSemifreddo al cioccolato, which although tasty was very big a quite heavy. The Cannolo Siciliano was fragrant and subtle in flavour but the pastry was a touch hard.

Cannolo Siciliano

You do not get Italian food this good in Liverpool. Thats all I need to say, its better than anything we have to offer, reasonably priced, offers big portions and is a worth a short drive. Just make sure you book, as its very popular.