Gastronomic Fantasy by Northcote Manor

If, like me, you enjoy ogling graphic gastro porn, then the great british menu is probably one of many gratuitous TV shows you tune into. Indeed, if our food fantasies could come true, would they ever live up to the perfectly lit and expertly shot culinary delights that adorn our screens? Could the food that would actually arrive in front of us really be that juicy, tender, soft or fragrant? Could the flavors delicately mingle on our palates and inspire past memories of distant childhood or bring us together as a community and forge new friendships? Most of us probably don’t ever get the chance to find out; if I got to sample every dish I’d ever seen on the telly my waist line would be expanding faster than Rebekah Brook’s reputation is collapsing. However, for once, I did get to eat a dish such as a TV chef intended, all be it the eighth placed dessert from the most recent great british menu. Lisa Allen’s Raspberry and Chocolate Pavlova with sheep’s milk ice cream, although suffering terribly at the hands of the judges, was the dessert offered at Northcote summer season cookery day, recently hosted at Blackburn Rovers Football Club.

Cured cedar plank roasted salmon and potato salad

This day consisted of a morning cooking demonstration by Nigel Haworth part owner of Northcote and Lisa Allen, head chef from the Michelin stared hotel. Along with Craig Bancroft, the other owner and sommelier, providing accompanying wine to all the dishes. The demonstration was quite long but broken down well and full of interesting tips and information. What I found particularly interesting was the wine tasting by Craig, which was packed full of info, I feel I learnt a great deal in an area of knowledge I’m trying to improve. There wasn’t sufficient wine for all attendees (about 100 of us) to try each wine, and I feel upping the amount of wine would be of benefit to the day. On the whole the cooking demonstration was interesting and entertaining.

The two wines I bought

After the demo we had some time to mingle around a small selection of stalls run by the local producers who provide produce to Northcote. I got to buy some lovely fresh strawberries and a couple of the wines I had tasted. It was a shame the the local seafood provider was not able to attend at short notice, as the cured and roasted salmon, which was demonstrated earlier and served at the buffet, was excellent. We had assigned seats at tables and waited eagerly as we were invited to join the buffet queue, however the wait was eased by waiters offering canapes of pork and apple spring rolls and tempura cauliflower. The salmon and accompanying salads where all excellent and the company at the table was also very enjoyable. Sitting with seven other attendees at our table, the food had actually brought us together, I didn’t forge any life long friendships, but we all had a good time together. Then came the Pavlova, a really lovely dish, well presented and made particularly interesting by the milk ice-cream, which I may well try making at home.

If only my photography skill were better.

Sheep's Milk ice-cream in its tub

For the sum of £50 I got to attend a cooking demonstration by a couple of michelin started chefs, try wine chosen by their sommelier and eat a two course meal in good company. A Northcote cooking day in Blackburn is a short drive from Liverpool and reasonably priced, and I would attend again. As for actually realising a gastro fantasy, did it live up to the promises spat forth by my TV? Unfortunately reality is never as good as fantasy, and alway leaves you wanting more.

Liverpool’s Michelin Star?

I’ve read in a few different articles, from a few different places, that Liverpool is fast becoming a culinary hot spot, worth visiting just for the array of restaurants. But is this the case? What do you think? Personally I’m not sure, undoubtedly the number and choice of destinations has greatly increased over the last 10 year, and the quality has also improved (although not as much as quantity). However do we have anything that other similarly large cities don’t have? Restaurants like Il Forno, Deli Fonseca, Salt House tappas to name just a few are independent establishments that offer great food and service, but they are not stand out restaurants. What we don’t have is a high quality fine dining restaurant, one with 3 or 4 AA rosettes or a Michelin star.

There are restaurants that have talked about a Michelin star before now, yet nothing has materialised. The London Carriage Works was certainly a restaurant aiming for Michelin standards, but as yet has never made it, although some of its prices might make you think otherwise.  The Panoramic boasts the most perfect location showcasing a view that I doubt could be topped by any in the UK, but the food so far has not proven a match to the surroundings. I dined there about 18 months ago and on the whole found the food to be poor for the hefty price charged. However I’ve heard there is a new head chef in residence, and that standards are improving, indeed the introduction of a tasting menu is a clear sign of its intent.

60 hope street, the long standing institution in the Georgian quarter continues to do well, and I hear from a friend who knows some of the kitchen staff, that they also have a new chef.  As to their intentions, I’m not yet sure, they like to think of themselves as the best restaurant in Liverpool, thus aiming to raise standards and refine the food would certainly seem like the next step.

I, for one, would really like to see a top quality fine dining restaurant in Liverpool, worthy of a Michelin star. I feel it could easily be supported by the local economy and attract further visitors to our city. However at the moment I don’t see any restaurant we currently have as being good enough. If we are to be considered a culinary hot spot we still have a significant piece of the puzzle missing.